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By Wai Gen Yee Entertainment Staff |
Guide to Star Ratings |
I didn't know what to expect when visiting the new digs of The Vortex Bar and Grill's (878 Peachtree St.) Midtown location. Unlike its Little Five Points counterpart the Midtown Vortex is all slick stainless steel, glass, and neon, reflecting the area's yuppy clientele. However, the insides are all Vortex. Adorning the walls are the stock Americana memorabilia, including license plates, hub caps, and street signs. Those who miss the "skull" on the exterior of the Little Five Points Vortex can be consoled that there's a skeleton riding a hog right behind the bar. Despite the Midtown modern facade, the inside maintains the same good old roadhouse feel.
The restaurant prides itself on its simple unpretentiousness. In fact, you get hit over the head with it while reading the menu, so "pull the stick outta your butt" when you go there. The fare is simple. Breakfast is served all day and consists of your egg based items. Starters include nachos and wings, and meals are standard pub grub: burgers, sandwiches, and dogs.
I started off with what is probably the most exotic item on the menu, the Cuban Black Bean Spread ($4.25), which consisted of flour tortillas, salsas, and a spiced spread made of black bean with a cream cheese base. I should have stuck with chicken wings, because cream cheese and tortillas are as natural a match as bagels and salsa. Each of the components of this appetizer was tasty. The salsa had a mild zing, and the black beans add an innovative texture to the cream cheese. But, try spreading thick cream cheese on a light flour tortilla. The mechanics of this dish are its fatal flaw.
For an entree, I was obliged to have the highly touted Vortex Burger ($4.50-$6.25). What makes a burger a Vortex burger? Probably, a marketer, but also a half pound of char-grilled sirloin, a large lettuce leaf, a tomato slice, red onions, and a chewy, toasted, sesame-topped bun. These burgers are accompanied with fries, potato salad, or other items for a surcharge. Customized burgers are available. I had the Bar-B-Q version, and my friend had one with blue cheese, bacon, and sauteed mushrooms.
As soon as I saw the burgers, I knew they were the real thing. The patties were of varying sizes and shapes (I think my friend got the bigger piece of meat), indicating that someone, not some machine from one of Tech's departments, took time to unmeticulously shaped a half-pound ball of ground meat. They were topped with fresh vegetables and healthy portions of your custom additions. My friend actually complained about having too much cheese in her sandwich. Was this a sign of poor burger design? No, she also complained that there was too much meat in her burger, so her problem was just one of scale.
When I bit into the burger, I noticed that the cooks took my medium-rare request to heart. The edges of the patty were a little grey, but as I made my way to the center, the meat got progressively pinker and juicier. The Vortex is not afraid to sell raw meat. The ham and sauce did not add much to the burger, however, and, in the end, I would have preferred to attack it without the distraction.
The fries were well prepared. They were crisp and slightly chewy. The Vortex cooks them with the skins on (the way I like them) so there's a stronger potato flavor. The potato salad option was not bad either. It contained large chunks of potatoes that still had some life in them. They were not overcooked, and were not tired from sitting around too long. There was no confusion here between potato salad with mashed potato salad.
Service was good, as well. Our waitress must be used to running around, because, when I went, on a quieter night, she could only be criticized with being overly attentive. As soon as she saw my bucket of Coke was half-empty, she offered to refill it. Otherwise, she served with a smile, remembered who ordered what, and was prompt.
The Vortex is a very good choice for a simple bar/restaurant. One might think that they've sold out when noticing the garish commercialism all over their walls and on the menu, but there is substance here as well. The prices are still low, the food is of high quality, and there are hundreds of beers to choose from. Also note that the Vortex is nearby, and is a good place to meet people who know nothing about engineering.
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